Adapting in crisis: Canlis transforms for community during COVID-19

Executive overview

When COVID-19 hit Seattle in March 2020, Canlis—a fine dining institution with 115 employees and 70 years of family history—faced existential risk. Rather than hunker down, owner Mark Canlis made a radical decision: shut the fine dining operation and launch three entirely new concepts (drive-through, bagel shop, home delivery) within two weeks to keep his team employed. The move was rooted in military values instilled through his Air Force service and a belief that having the ability to help means you have a responsibility to act. The core insight: in crisis, your people's wellbeing is your most defensible strategic position.

From crisis to action

  • Moment of decision came while in New York; Seattle's first COVID case was announced, making the threat visceral
  • Initial response from team was helplessness and defensive posture—hunker down, protect, wait it out
  • Reframed the question: if we're going to keep playing our game, we need to admit the game has changed
  • Called all-hands meeting and asked staff to re-volunteer; 100% said yes immediately
  • Understood this would cost the business months of revenue but protect jobs and preserve the organization for what comes after

The four-concept pivot

Drive-through (biggest revenue generator): Leveraged physical location right off busy street; chef creates remarkable burgers, ice cream sandwiches, salads. Designed to generate profitable revenue while allowing contactless service.

Bagel shed (loss leader, kept people employed): Crew of eight bakes bagels from 2 a.m.; sold out in under an hour from day one. Everything bagels with eggs, sausage, cheese. Can't scale profitably at current prices but mission was employment, not profit.

Home delivery (family meal dinners): One menu item per night (cassoulet, rabbit pot pie). Uses existing kitchen capacity and redeployed servers. Profitable at scale; designed to run 20 hours of prep for a five-hour service.

Fourth concept: Intentionally not yet revealed, but similar spirit of innovation.

How the mechanics worked

  • Partnered with Tock (reservation platform) to build delivery system; Tock's team rewrote their platform in 48 hours to support it
  • No complex infrastructure needed: simple website on Canvas, menus on phones for staff, drop-off logistics, alcohol delivery built in
  • Any restaurant can replicate this with basic elements: boxes, containers, one solid dish, and staff willingness
  • Sold out three nights of dinners in 90 minutes

Culture of continuous innovation

  • Canlis doesn't just renovate annually—Mark says they open a second restaurant every 18 months through system rewrites
  • Long history of experimental projects: pop-up shake shack, Hawaiian luau with 24-foot pool in parking lot that drew 1,200 people
  • Philosophy: if you want to be relevant, you must earn that right by working constantly; "tonight we're good, tomorrow will be better"
  • Each experiment feeds back into core restaurant and teaches them about hospitality and what people need

The deeper purpose: why this matters

  • Canlis's mission has always been to "inspire people to turn toward one another"
  • Saw two epidemics: COVID-19 and the spread of fear and discouragement
  • Staff morale before decision: helplessness. After decision: hope and sense of agency
  • Mark's daily reminder to team: look up, check if the sky fell. If it didn't, you have something to be grateful for. Start there.

What comes next for fine dining

  • Goal was to break even over three months, not lose money, and position well for reopening
  • Whatever innovations stick (drive-through efficiency, simplified delivery model, staff parties as community events) will likely influence future Canlis operations
  • The core lesson: in unprecedented moments, the truth is we don't know what we're capable of until we try
  • Challenge to listeners: you don't have a restaurant, but you have something. Permission to think optimistically and act on it.

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